Sep. 25, 2003 - Angelenos now lead the nation in dining out, but in spending on service they leave the lousiest tips, according to the annual Zagat restaurant survey released Wednesday.

Los Angeles residents reported noshing outside their kitchens at least 3.7 times a week, but were the cheapest tippers among 40 U.S. cities.

"Fiscal woes may have the state tightening its belt, but Los Angelenos' appetites have not diminished," said Tim Zagat, chief executive officer of the Zagat Survey of Southern California.

"Los Angeles leads the country in dining out: We found 55 percent of the meals eaten in Los Angeles are eaten or prepared outside the home."

Nowhere were appetites more apparent Wednesday than at Katsu-Ya in Studio City, rated the No. 1 restaurant in the San Fernando Valley for its signature crispy rice with spicy tuna, seared spicy albacore and baked crab rolls.

"I'm in here five nights a week," declared Elaine Saller, 58, sated after $57 worth of sesame tuna and sashimi. "If my friends want to join me, they come here."

Saller's tip belied the survey when she left behind $12 -- higher than the 18 percent left by the average L.A. diner.

"The super cuts of the fish, the talented and wonderful presentation and the courtesy and the generosity of the staff make this, for me, the only place to eat in L.A.," she said.

The other top Valley area restaurants, rated by Zagat in descending order, were Sushi Nozawa in Studio City; Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas; Brent's Delicatessen & Restaurant in Northridge; and Brandywine in Woodland Hills.

The 2004 Zagat guide covers 1,638 restaurants in Los Angeles and Orange counties and bases its ratings on the responses of more than 6,060 diners, who ate out 1.2 million times in the past year.

The survey also found that 37 percent said they eat out more than they did two years ago, with 59 percent saying they spend more now when dining out.

Among the survey's key findings: Los Angeles residents eat out 3.7 times a week, compared with 3.5 times in New York, 3.3 times in San Francisco and 2.6 times in Washington, D.C.

The 18 percent average gratuity left by L.A. diners lagged behind the 18.3 percent left by diners in 40 U.S. cities surveyed.

Los Angeles restaurant mavens praised the variety of ethnic foods, with 30 percent favoring Italian, 20 percent Japanese, 12 percent French, 10 percent Chinese and 8 percent each preferring Thai and American.

Three-fourths rated poor service as the biggest complaint, in contrast to food, at 6 percent.

The average meal at the 20 priciest L.A. restaurants cost $66.20, compared with $90.68 in New York, $136.44 in Paris, $167.59 in Tokyo and $59.80 across the United States.

The average meal in Los Angeles cost $29.61.

When it came to food quality, as rated by its residents, Los Angeles ranked sixth overall, with San Francisco rated first, New York second and New Orleans third. Paris, home of some of the world's most finicky eaters, rated 23rd, just behind Las Vegas.

"L.A. is probably the No. 2 dining city in the country," said Zagat, speaking for himself. "San Francisco is not in the same league -- it's a great restaurant city, but L.A. beats it hands down."

That's if you know where to go, he said.

At Brent's, rated by Zagat as the No. 1 deli in Los Angeles for 11 years running, the patrons know exactly where to go.

"Let's put it this way," said Norman Acker, 85, basking in an aroma of steamy pastrami, kosher sausage, a tinge of mustard and fresh deli pickles at the Northridge restaurant.

"I live in Beverly Hills. My wife likes cabbage soup. That's why we come here -- it's the best she's ever eaten."

"Wonderful, love it," added Samuel Safran, 93, of North Hollywood, gazing at a $5.95 black-and-white cookie as large as a dinner plate.

"The matzo ball soup, they make the ball as big as a softball ... the ingredients, unheard of."

-----To see more of the Daily News, or to subscribe to the newspaper, go to http://www.dailynews.com.

(c) 2003, Daily News, Los Angeles. Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News.