By Chris Macias, The Sacramento Bee,
Calif.McClatchy-Tribune Regional News
April
18, 2012--Edward Martinez gently places a chocolate orb in the center
of a white bowl. To the touch, this confection is hard and impeccably
smooth, like a small eight ball.
His right hand, emblazoned
with a skull tattoo, holds a small ladle of warmed chocolate-infused
milk. He drizzles the liquid over the orb, accompanied by chocolate
streusel and toasted hazelnuts. It soon breaks open, revealing a
sumptuous filling of hazelnut and milk chocolate pudding, mixed with
more crispy bits of chocolate and hazelnut.
"I like making
pretty food," Martinez said. "The first thing you do is eat with your
eyes. You want it to be beautiful. If the flavors work, it brings that
whole dish together."
Martinez serves as executive pastry chef
of Hawks in Granite Bay, which specializes in seasonal ingredients and
is among the region's finest restaurants. Even in a chocolate-stained
apron, Martinez doesn't look like a guy you'd want to mess with. He
stands over 6 feet tall with a shaved head and a black widow spider on
the back of his neck. His body is an evolving canvas of tattoos, some
of which hark back to a past that he's since left behind: membership in
one of California's most notorious street gangs.
Learning to
make pastries may have saved Martinez's life, or at least spared him a
stretch in the state penitentiary. In 2005, facing three felony
charges, Martinez promised to enroll in a pastry-making program,
leading to a reduced sentence -- and perhaps a last chance at an honest
life.
Martinez's Facebook photos show a collage of the sweet
and a bitter taste of his past. There's a shot of his moelloux of white
chocolate, compressed mandarins, pistachio macaron and mandarin sorbet;
an "I heart foie gras" T-shirt sported by his baby son; and the casket
of one of Martinez's homeboys from his Fresno gang days being lowered
into the earth.
"I never expected to get this far," said Martinez, who
recently turned 27. "I expected ... (to be) in jail, or dead."
Now,
Martinez surrounds himself with sugars, ripe seasonal fruits and
delicate desserts. He's devouring "Modernist Cuisine," the six-volume
book of cutting-edge cooking techniques. His repertoire at Hawks
includes nitrogen-frozen chocolate mousse with gianduja cremeux and
hazelnut pudding.
"He's the best working pastry chef I've
seen," said Pajo Bruich, midtown's Lounge ON20 executive chef, known
for his complex cooking techniques. "Hands down, nobody in the
Sacramento market is doing the creative elements he's doing."
The rise of Baby Gangster
Baby Gangster was always ready to fight.
That's what the Bulldogs gang members called Martinez, after
he was "jumped into" the gang at age 13.
"I
was at the homeboy's house, in the backyard," Martinez recalled,
between sips of coffee at a midtown Sacramento cafe. "I'm telling them,
'I want to be in. This is what I want. I want to be a Bulldog.' And
they said, 'OK, let's do it.' They beat me up for about 30 seconds.
It's weird. You're beating up your friend so they can hang out with
you. I got "FRESNO" tattooed across my chest about six months after
that."
The Bulldogs have few friends, except for those also
inked with the dog paws and "BD" tattoos. Bulldogs are recognized as a
violent California gang, based primarily in Fresno. Law enforcement
estimates the gang has more than 6,000 members. The Bulldogs, who take
the name and logo from the mascot at California State University,
Fresno, have no allies and no leadership structure. Crips, Bloods,
Norteno and Sureno gangs are all sworn Bulldogs enemies.
Both
of Martinez's older brothers were Bulldogs; so were other close family
members. One cousin was nicknamed "Big Gangster," while an older
brother was "Lil Gangster." Baby Gangster Martinez was "Baby G" for
short -- and had it tattooed into his left forearm.
He said his
turf was on the east side of Fresno, where he claimed "Mariposa Street
Gangsters" -- or, "MSG" for short. He'd moved there from San Jose at
the age of 9, about two years after his mother, Theodora, died in a car
accident. He said he still thinks of her baking in the kitchen,
surrounded by the smells of sugar and frosting.
His father, Joe
Martinez, said his son didn't cope well after her death. The elder
Martinez, who earned an economics degree from Stanford University, had
hoped his four children would get educations, but his wife's death
fractured the family spirit.
"With Edward, he kept a lot inside
and started getting into trouble at school," said Joe Martinez. "Prior
to that, he was doing excellent in school."
Baby Gangster
developed a taste for stealing. He was charged and later convicted in
2004 with grand theft for stealing $2,000 worth of DVD players and
other merchandise from a Blockbuster Video.
In April 2005,
while at a Fresno fast food restaurant, Baby Gangster thought someone
looked at his girlfriend the wrong way. He attacked, punched the victim
and fled. According to documents in Fresno Superior Court, the victim
identified his attacker as a gang member because of his tattoos.
The
victim and two witnesses picked Edward Martinez out of a photo lineup.
Martinez was already on parole for the second-degree burglary at
Blockbuster. Baby Gangster went on the run for more than three weeks.
He knew he couldn't hide forever.
"I
finally got tired of running and went to my dad's house," said
Martinez. "I knew they were going to get me there. When they came to
the door, there were cops everywhere. I was going to jail."
Sweet salvation
Martinez's
dad had heard all the talk before about changing for good. So had
judges. Martinez was 20 and had served stints in county jail.
Now
he faced felony charges of assault and battery, both with gang
enhancements, and street terrorism. Facing eight years in state prison,
he said he wanted to enroll in a local baking program.
"I
pretty much begged," Martinez said. "I knew if I was going to prison
that I would do the whole eight years. It would be me gangbanging
harder than ever before, trying to fight with everybody."
Martinez
pleaded no contest to misdemeanor battery. The other charges were
dropped, but he'd have to honor his parole and enroll in the pastry
program as promised.
By this time, Martinez had spent nine months in county jail.
He was ready to bid his Baby Gangster persona goodbye.
"I
needed to prove I wasn't a (screw) up," said Martinez. "I just had to
prove to my dad that this is what I was going to do. Baking and
pastries was something I could have fun doing. I remembered being happy
doing that."
In the Fresno suburb of Clovis, Martinez enrolled
at the Institute of Technology's baking and pastry specialist program.
He felt self-conscious at first, still sporting a nearly bald head with
a "BD" tattoo he had inked in county jail.
"When he came into
my class he wasn't very talkative, but when he did talk he had a lot of
questions," said Thomas Mendoza, a culinary mentor and instructor
there. "He was very inquisitive on things that were new, and when he
got a basic technique down, he wanted to take it above and beyond, and
make it his own."
His older brothers were still in the gang. In
many cases, leaving a gang means "blood in, blood out" -- you can only
leave with your life.
"There were times when I had a friend
come over and tell me some stuff happened in the 'hood and we needed to
go handle it," said Martinez. "I'm like, 'I can't.' I'd never told
anyone that. He kind of gave me a look like, 'Are you serious?' I said,
'I just can't.' "
Martinez dug into his textbooks and other
reading, including "The French Laundry Cookbook." He learned a new
vocabulary: crème anglaise, mignardises, crème
de farine, and veloute of bittersweet chocolate.
"I was loving
it," said Martinez. "When I was making breads for the first time, they
would look exactly like the stuff in the book. I started showing my
dad, 'Look what I made!' "
For his final exam, after the
nine-month program, Martinez presented a complex tuile cookie cone with
garnishes and the point side down in the center of the plate. His
attendance had been perfect, and Martinez made the dean's list.
"He
had all the awards you could receive," said Mendoza. "He was one of the
leaders in the class. He's one of those students that just gets it."
Martinez
applied for a job at the now-defunct Slate's, one of Fresno's finest
restaurants. The interview was the first time he'd ever stepped into a
fancy restaurant.
"I took him on because no one would probably
hire the kid," said Roy Harland, former executive chef of Slate's. "A
lot of the ultraconservative Fresno clientele would not be comfortable
with a former Bulldog gang member walking through the dining room. I
immediately knew this guy has talent and could create."
His new persona
Like
the chocolate orb, Martinez's "Baby Gangster" persona has melted away.
When he's not working at Hawks, Martinez raises four children in
Antelope with his wife of seven years, Michelle.
Martinez moved
his family to the Sacramento area two years ago from Napa, where he
worked at the Michelin-starred Bistro Jeanty. He's had other job
opportunities, but lost some after potential employers checked his
background. Either way, Martinez says, Hawks and Sacramento are happy
homes for him.
"My kids are happy and they're going to a good
school," said Martinez. "It's about my wife and my kids now. That's why
I do everything I do. If it wasn't for them, I wouldn't be working 14
to 15 hours a day."
Past the restaurant's houndstooth chairs
and blue walls, Martinez towers over the kitchen's pastry station. He
keeps a tank of liquid nitrogen close to whip up new pastries. One
looks like something from a mad scientist's laboratory: frozen coconut
mousse with coconut sorbet and cilantro oil drizzle.
The
infusion of liquid nitrogen to the coconut mousse adds a theatrical
kind of fog as the dessert freezes, with the final product looking like
delicate cauliflower. The dish's coconut flavors are perfectly
pronounced, with Martinez's cilantro oil adding a pleasing herbal
accompaniment.
"I like to do modern stuff, but with classic
techniques," said Martinez. "I can put some liquid nitrogen into a
mousse, but I can also knock out some perfect crepes for you. People
will say, 'Oh, this is so beautiful, can we speak to the pastry chef?
Where is she?' They'll look at me like, 'You made these plates?' "
He
visits other restaurants for inspiration. In February, he and his wife
traveled to New York City, dining at wd-50, Eleven Madison Park and Per
Se. Over 14 courses at Per Se, dressed in a suit with his collar barely
concealing his neck tattoos, he thought of how far he'd come.
"When
I walked in, they were all, 'Hi, how are you, Mr. Martinez?' " said
Martinez. "I'm pretty sure I'm the only one from my neighborhood that's
ever going to do anything like this."
Sometimes he feels the
shadow of his past. Before St. Patrick's Day this year, Martinez and
others in the Hawks crew shaved their heads for charity. Everyone could
see the "BD" tattoo. Two days later, he covered it with a giant skull
tattoo.
His goal is to ink over all of his gang tattoos.
"I
don't want to be somewhere, like at the beach with my wife, and all of
a sudden someone's like, 'What's that FRESNO for?' " said Martinez. "I
don't give off the same vibe that I used to."
Still, in the
rush of a packed night at Hawks, and especially if someone botches one
of Martinez's desserts, he can snap. The difference now, Martinez said,
is that he'll apologize.
"To some degree, I think he still has
some issues there," said Joe Martinez. "But, he's managed to control it
quite a bit. ... He's done pretty good, and I'm very proud."
Martinez
said that both his older brothers have also left the Bulldogs gang. A
younger brother, Matt, lives in Sacramento now and works as a line cook
at Lounge ON20.
Martinez dreams of opening his own dessert bar, hoping to be
known around the country for his pastries.
"I'm Edward now," said Martinez. "I'm not a gangster. He's
gone. He's no longer there. I don't look back."
Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.
___
(c)2012 The Sacramento Bee (Sacramento, Calif.)
Visit The Sacramento Bee (Sacramento, Calif.) at
www.sacbee.com
Distributed by MCT Information Services
This article is copyright protected by
Hotel-Online. Reuse by other media or news outlets or organizations is
prohibited. Personal use and sharing via social media tools is
encouraged.
|