Oct. 9, 2003 --MAMMOTH LAKES, Calif.--Doug Ogilvy, the developer overseeing a $1 billion ski resort project in this Sierra-flanked town, has had a busy day. 

He watched all 24 high-end townhomes sell this September morning, then was off to an art gallery opening at the new European-style village, and is now socializing with fellow Intrawest staff at the recently opened tiki bar. 

As he leans back in his bar seat, I ask why Intrawest is so interested in Mammoth Lakes. He tips back his cowboy hat, sips lager and answers with a question. "Have you skied Mammoth?" 

According to almost everyone here, it really is that simple. The area has breathtaking terrain, ample light, powdery snow and plenty of sunshine, even after a storm. Mammoth Mountain with its more than 11,000-foot summit offers long runs with backgrounds of snow-encrusted mountains. And each week, more shops and restaurants open in the Village, Intrawest's luxury lodging, dining and shopping hub. 

Last year, 1.3 million skiers came to this once-sleepy California town three hours' drive south of Reno. This year, Ski magazine rated it the No. 1 terrain park in North America. All that, combined with hiking, fishing, rock climbing and the new European village development, positions the area to become a year-round destination spot. 

Now is the time for a fall getaway, with the aspens starting to illuminate the Eastern Sierra with their warm, golden hue. A few weeks ago, I took a drive to Mammoth with three friends and spent a long weekend hiking, kayaking, and breathing the fresh pine air. The area has some of the best backpacking in California, with long trails that wind through dramatic mountainous terrain to high alpine lakes. And there are plenty of pack companies for those interesting in traipsing through the mountains without the heavy load. 

Mammoth is still a relative unknown to many Bay Area vacationers, drawing most of its visitors from Southern California. The reason is geographical. When Yosemite's Tioga Pass is open during summer, the drive is about six hours from the Bay Area. But when snow blocks the eastern gate in winter, the trek across the Sierra can be cumbersome. In winter, travelers from the Bay Area must cross the Sierra near Lake Tahoe, then travel on U.S. 395 south to reach Mammoth Lakes. 

"There's such a gap to bridge before people from the Bay Area would want to come here," said Will Erickson, who grew up in Marin County and is now working as a brewmaster for the Mammoth Brewing Co. "If you're from the Bay Area, you just go to Tahoe. No one knows about Mammoth." 

If plans for an expanded airport runway clear, there could be non-stop service by American Airlines from Mineta San Jose Airport to Mammoth's airport, which is about 10 miles south of the city, Ogilvy said. But these plans have been in the works for several years, and it's hard to predict when they will be approved. 

At Mammoth, Intrawest's 10-year-long "Project Sierra" includes the development of three "neighborhoods," which would cover about 240 acres: Juniper Springs, a ski-in/ski-out development with 251 condominiums and 36 townhomes, completed in 1999; Sierra Star, an 18-hole golf course with 70 townhomes; and the Village at Mammoth with 276 condominiums and a shopping and dining mecca. The Village plan is expected to be completed next August. 

The Canadian company, which has bought about 60 percent of Mammoth Mountain and the surrounding area in the past seven years, has the resort formula down. The company owns or manages 10 mountain resorts -- including Whistler Blackcomb in British Columbia, Copper Mountain in Colorado and a village development at Squaw Valley. 

The Village at Mammoth, with its three condominium complexes, new 15-passenger gondola to Mammoth Mountain and assortment of shops and restaurants, is a one-stop tourist area. The old-fashioned European-style main street and plaza creates a gathering spot for locals and vacationers alike -- something the strip shopping centers in the town never established. 

Bit by bit, the Village is awakening. The first restaurants started serving in April. Two of the condo complexes are occupied, and the third will open next August. About 10 restaurants and shops are open now, and by Thanksgiving five more are expected. Eventually there will be at least 32. Among the offerings are Hennessey's restaurant, a nightclub called Fever, Starbucks and plenty of clothing and accessory stores. 

During our stay in Mammoth, we took a hike from McGee Creek, a trail head a short drive south of town. Despite a looming thundercloud, we hiked several miles -- just enough to get a taste of the backcountry and make us want to return with camping supplies. Trails are abundant and seldom crowded. 

We also drove up to June Lake, a mirror-clear blue lake where you can rent kayaks and paddleboats. 

In the evenings, it was fun to try new restaurants, relax with a beer at the Mammoth Brewing Co., or walk around the new Village. 

Jim Ellis of Ventura, who has been coming to Mammoth since he was a child, said he was overwhelmed by the new development but still feels the area maintains its low-key vibe. 

But locals such as Jeanne Standley, 83, who has lived in Mammoth Lakes for 35 years, see the changes big money investments can make in a once secluded mountain town. She once knew everyone in town, she says proudly. 

"You lose your closeness," says Standley, who used to run the local laundromat when the town had 600 residents and ski lift tickets were $2.50. Now the population is closer to 7,000, and lift tickets run about $60. "We realize that newness helps, but it's taken away from the small town itself," she said. 

Now the simple wood cabins and rough-around-the edges mountaineers are being replaced by million-dollar homes and jet-setting tourists. 

"I love the Village," said Joey Merten, an energetic manager at Roberto's, a popular Mexican restaurant in the older part of Mammoth. He says high-speed lifts, better roads, and nicer restaurants outweigh the negative effects of growth. He has heard of wait staff moving to places such as New Mexico, resigned to never being able to afford a house in Mammoth. 

"People are either going to go, or stay and make the best of it," he says, still frazzled from the bustling lunch crowd that's just begun to filter out. "I'm in, and I'm enjoying it." 

MAMMOTH FACTS 

Average yearly snowfall: 32 feet 

Average sunny days per year: 300 

Length of ski season: November to June 

Number of ski lifts at Mammoth Mountain: 27 

Number of trails at Mammoth Mountain: 150 

Longest run: three miles 

Terrain: 15 percent expert, 20 percent advanced, 40 percent intermediate and 25 percent beginner 

IF YOU GO 

From the Bay Area: Driving from the Bay Area will take about six to seven hours, depending on the season and road conditions. Highway 50 and Interstate 80 are the most popular routes. In winter, mountain passes are closed, so the best way to go is to take I-80 east and then Highway 395 south. In the summer, drivers can take Sonora Pass (Highway 108), or Tioga Pass (Highway 120) through Yosemite, which requires the $20 park fee. 

Staying in The Village: The Village (1-800-MAMMOTH) offers studio to three-bedroom lodge condominiums that are close to shopping, dining, bike park access and golf. In winter, there is a gondola that takes skiers and snowboarders to Mammoth Mountain's Canyon Lodge. Price ranges from $230 to $440 a night. 

Other lodgings: There is a variety of places to stay in Mammoth, from bed and breakfasts to cabins to an RV park. Visit www.visitmammoth.com/travel/lodgingfr.html 

Where to eat: 

Good Life Cafe, 126 Old Mammoth Road, (760) 934-1734. Great breakfast spot. 

Giovannis Pizzeria Restaurant & Lounge, 437 Old Mammoth Road, (760) 934-7563. Popular for lunch. 

Roberto's, 271 Old Mammoth Road, (760) 934-3667. Best Mexican restaurant in town. 

Skadi, 587 Old Mammoth Road, Suite B, (760) 934-3902. Nicest restaurant in town. 

Beyond skiing: There's plenty of hiking within Mammoth and a short drive away. The John Muir and Ansel Adams wilderness areas, with alpine lakes and meadows, are great for a day hike or more. Devil's Postpile National Monument and the Red's Meadow area are popular spots for hiking -- with lakes, falls and stunning mountain backdrops. 

With the abundance of lakes, it's no surprise fishing is a popular pastime, with trout the most common catch. Check out deep water fishing at Crowley Lake or fly fishing along the San Joaquin River in the Red's Meadow area. 

Golf is in full swing during the summer. Try the 18-hole Sierra Star golf course or Snowcreek Golf Course, a nine-hole course for all levels. 

Resource: www.visitmammoth.com. 

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(c) 2003, San Jose Mercury News, Calif. Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News. IDR,